Bike Basics
- new tires, Angel GT
- new wheel bearings
- new sprockets and chain
- rebuilt forks
- new steering bearings
- new brake pads front and rear
- low mileage because engine was swapped to a almost new one (original miles unknown but looked almost new looking at paint job and inside oil filter opening)
- changed oil after 50 miles, 100 and 300 miles (due to new engine)
- carbs rebuilt
- new brake, clutch master and clutch slave
- new fuel and air lines
- new second petcock
- clutch plates were inspected and are good, new gasket
- new clutch push rod and seals
- engine compression within specs
Modifications
- re-wired from scratch using Motogadget m-unit
- Motogadget wiring kit for color coding
- Motogadget push-buttons to control lights, turn, horn etc
- Trail Tec Vapor digital gauge and indicator light panel (oil, high beam, turns, neutral), Trail Tec resistor tachometer wire to prevent RPM display jumps
- halo ring in headlight wired to on-off switch
- inline thermostat (with correct opening temp, of course) with fan wired to on-off switch
- rerouted coolant pipes to make room for coils inside frame
- coils relocated to inside frame
- custom built tail frame, 1 inch Chromoly tubing
- custom made seat
- rear signals are led and serve as run, brake and turn signal
- Shorai lithium battery inside the frame
- Swingarm swap
- 180 rear tire
Modifying the tail section. The original subframe was cut to make it shorter and end piece welded on. The seat is the original but cut and upholstered. The fender was made from fiberglass.
I was not happy with the first tail modification and decided to have something custom built that flows with the tire. The new tail frame is made from 1 inch chromoly tubing, the seat is custom made.
The original bike setup has full fairings which cover things like ignition coils that are originally placed outside the frame as well as a bulky thermostat housing. Going naked with this bike required to move the ignition coils and remove the thermostat housing. In order to make room for ignition coils inside the frame, I decided to reroute the coolant pipes, which originally go up the engine and exit the frame top right. My new set up has the coolant pipes exit the engine towards the rear and go up the frame on the outside. This gives me room to put the ignition coils where the coolant pipe used to be. An new inline thermostat housing with correct opening temperature setting completes the setup. It is still not ideal and I am planning to replace the radiator with one that has an inbuilt cap and entry on bike side, not facing forward as it is at the moment.
Headlight... The right headlight is very important for the looks of a bike, at least to me. I was looking for one that sits flush and doesn't stick out much. It took me several attempts and lamps to find the right one. Here a few pics of my selection process.
Wiring... I decided to do that from scratch to make sure all wiring is updated and to get rid of fuses. I am using the Motogadget M-Unit as well as their wiring kit which is color coded for easier identification. For handlebar controls, I am using Motogadget push button minis. The headlight halo is wired to an on/off switch and can be operated separately. Battery is a Shorai, the digital gauge is a TrailTec.
I believe that the bike would look cleaner with side covers. Here a few pics of the process. I started with the original side cover and cut it. This gives me a template for the somewhat difficult shape. Next up was adding cardboard to mock up the entire cover. I am going with fiberglass for now but will most likely build it out of metal at some point in the future.
Wider rear wheel and tire...
I decided to put a wider rear tire on the bike. In order to do that, I had to go with a wider rim. The wheel of choice is off a 94 FZR 1000 because the spokes design is the same. It is also a 17 inch which offers a better tire selection. After one first test fit, I realized that the stock swingarm might work. However, I am swapping it for a 92 FZR swingarm for less modifications and a beefier look.
On the 92 swingarm, the width at the pivot is the same as the stock. However, pivot bolt as well as axle diameters are larger. Since I did not want to drill the frame to fit the larger pivot bolt, I decided to use the stock pivot bolt and swingarm bushing. Conversion needle bearings ensured the proper fit. The make and model of that is pictured below. After the conversion bearings are pressed in, everything is pretty much a straight swap. There are a few issues though: the new linkage is bigger and hits the exhaust. The foot pegs/heel guards are too close to the swingarm and require spacers (I am using two washers and all is well). Also, the original shock mount on the frame has to be cut to fit the new rear shock which has a remote reservoir. Last but not least, with the original 47 teeth sprocket, the axle adjusters have to be all the way back preventing further chain adjustments in future. I went one tooth up to fix this. The larger diameter also prevents the chain from rubbing on the chain guide too much.
Parts used:
- 92 swingarm including linkage, rear shock
- 94 rear wheel including sprocket pulley, axle, brake mount
- 88 rear brake caliper
- 88 pivolt bolt
- 88 swingarm bushing
- conversion needle bearings (INA RNA6904)
- offset sprocket (engine side) 1/4 inch
- 48 tooth rear sprocket (vs original 47)
- Tire: Pirelli Diablo Rosso 2, 180/60 17
Old 160 setup
New 180 setup
Exhaust
I am no longer liking the current exhaust and am thinking of going dual. Right now I am thinking of a shorty dual exhaust on each side. Below are some ideas and what it might look like. The tricky part will be routing the exhaust pipes...
Misc / ideas for next mods
- new tail addon
Future mods / things to do:
- fork covers for beefy look
- dual exhaust
- side covers to make tank and tail frame look like one piece
- frame cleanup (close air vent holes)
- different radiator
- paint